Method of making shoes



Sept. 15, 1942. J. HJBOYER METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Oct. 29, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Sept. 1942- J. H. BOYER 2,295,631

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Oct. 29, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patente d Sept. 15, 1942 i o tics 1 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES John H. Boyer, Nahant, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 29, 1940, Serial No. 363,264

15, (llaims.

is nvention relates to methods of. mak n shoes and is herein illustrated in its application to a method of shoemaking which includes the attachment of a sole attaching welt to the margin of a shoe upper before the upper is lasted.

It is an object of the present invention to improve upon the manufacture of prewelt shoes of the type illustrated in United States Letters Patent No. 2,119,801, granted June '7, 1938, on an application of W. C. Vizard. This shoe comprises an upper having no lasting margin and a welt split twice along one margin to provide three adjacent flaps, one of which is attached to an insole while the other two are secured to the margin of the upper positioned between them, the unsplit margin serving as an outsole-attaching extension. It has been found desirable to strengthen the shoe by providing it with a vamp lining which is lasted to the insole together with the insole-attaching flap of the welt, and the present invention has, for one important object, the development of a suitable method of manufacturing lined shoes of this type. It is to be understood, however, that the invention in certain aspects is not limited to methods of making shoes of the type illustrated in the Vizard patent above referred to but is applicable to the manufacture of any and all types of lined shoes.

With the above objects in view, the invention in one aspect thereof comprises a method of shoemaking which resides in the attachment of a vamp lining to a shoe upper and drawing the lining heelwardly in order that it will not interfere with subsequent operations on the upper, holding it against return movement, securing a welt to the margin of the upper while the lining is held back away from the vamp portion of the upper and thereafter spreading out the lining against the inner surface of the upper and preferably also against the insole-attaching flap of the welt. In making shoes provided with tongues, it has been found convenient to hold the vamp lining in heelwardly drawn position by clamping it to the tongue. While the lining is held in its heelwardly drawn position, the welt is attached to the margin of the upper and cement is applied to the inner surface of the vamp and to the inner surface of the insole-attaching flap of the welt and cement is also applied to the upper contacting surface of the vamp lining unless the lining is cement-treated before securing it to the upper. Preferably the lining is held in its heelwardly drawn position by means portable with the lined upper thus leaving the upper free to be manipulated at will during the welt-attaching and cement-applying operations.

In another aspect thereof, the present invention consists in a method of making shoes which comprises securing the welt illustrated in the Vizard patent to the margin of the upper, forming the welt by rolling pressure to cause the outsole-attachin extension to project outwardly at an angle to the margin of the upper, positioning a cement-treated lining against the inner surface of the welt including its insole-attaching flap, and again forming the welt by rolling pressure and in the same operation pressing the margin of the lining against the welt to cementattach said parts together. In this aspect thereof, the invention is not limited to the drawing of the lining heelwardly and applying means for holding it against return movement, although it will, undoubtedly, in many instances be found desirable to include these steps.

In a further aspect thereof, the invention consists in bringing the cement-treated lining into intimate contact with the inner surface of the vamp portion of the upper by spreading out the lining and ironing it against the inner surface of the upper. Preferably, the ironing operation is performed by a heated element in order to accelerate and improve the bonding action of the cement.

The invention will now be described in its application to methods of manufacturing shoes of the type illustrated in the Vizard patent above referred to, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of the inner side of an upper having a vamp lining folded inwardly from opposite sides and drawn heelwardly and clipped to the tongue;

Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation illustrating the operation of cementing the upper to the midfiap of the welt by means of work-engaging rolls, fragmentally shown;

Fig. 3 is a longitudinal sectional elevation of a welted upper illustrating the spraying of cement onthe inner surface of the vamp;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the forepart of the upper illustrating the ironing of the cementtreated vamp lining to the cement-treated inner surface of the vamp;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view of the welted margin of the upper as it appears after the ironing operation illustrated in Fig. 4; and I Fig. 6 is a fragmental view illustrating the operation of forming the welt and cement-attaching the margin of the lining to the inner surfaces of the welt.

Referring to Fig, 1, the method of the present invention, as herein illustrated, consists in the provision of an upper it which is cut scant and has no lasting margin. said upper being provided with a vamp lining I2 which is greater in area than the vamp portion of the upper and extends beyond the edge of the vamp when outspread thereon, see Fig. 6. In order to provide clearance for operations on the upper, the opposite side portions M of the vamp lining are folded inwardly toward the longitudinal center line of the lining, and the folded lining is drawn heelwardly and temporarily attached to the free end of a tongue l6 by any suitable holding means, for example, the spring clip I8. If the vamp lining is to be cemented when cement is applied to the inner surface of the vamp, the vamp lining is so folded as to provide a width of material sufiicient to completely cover the tongue in order to oviate the accidental application of cement to the tongue. Preferably, however, the vamp lining is treated with cement before it is stitched to the upper in order to insure a uniform application of cement thereto and to obviate the necessity for exercising care in attaching the lining to the tongue.

After th vamp lining has been thus temporarily attached to the tongue, cement is applied to the inner surface of the margin of the upper about the entire periphery of the upper and, also, to the mid-flap 2!] (Fig. 2) of a twice-spilt welt 22 and the Welt and upper are cemented together by means of a machine such as that illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,286,261, granted June 16, 1942, on an application filed in the name of Ernest Casavant. This machine has a roll 24 for supporting the welt, a roll 26 for pressing the margin of the upper against the mid-flap of the welt, and a finger 28 for turning back the grain flap 39 of the welt. It will be understood that the operation of this machine on the lined upper illustrated in Fig. 1 is greatly facilitated by arranging the vamp lining a shown in Fig. 1 and clipping it to the free end of the tongue, thus leaving the margin of the forepart of the upper free for the welt-attaching operation. After the welt has been cement-attached to th upper, the welt is permanently secured to the upper by parallel rows of chainstitch seams 32 (Fig. 3) which are preferably formed by a Puritan two-needle chainstitch sewing machine, such as. that illustrated in an application for United States Letters Patent Serial No. 302,382, filed November 1, 1939, in the name of Carl F.,Whitaker. After the welt has been stitched to the upper, th outsole-attaching extension 34 of the welt is bent outwardly into its position illustrated in Fig. 3 by a machine such as that illustrated in United States Patent No.

2,261,198 granted Nov. 4, 1941, in the name of I William A. Wheaton. Referring to Fig. 6, this machine is provided with a work-supporting roll 36 and a work-engaging roll 38 for breaking down the outsole-attaching extension of the welt.

This operation on thewelt not only positions the r-:

outsole-attaching extension to project outwardly from the upper but also arranges the insole-attaching flap at an angle to the mid-flap 20 such that it is conveniently arranged to receive a coating of cement from a cement spray nozzle such as that illustrated at 43 in Fig. 3. After operating on the welt as above described, the inner surface of the vamp and th inner surfaces Of the welt, including the insole-attaching flap 42 of the Welt, are coated with cement or latex preferably by means of a cement-spraying device or machine; although, if desired, cement may be brushed on or applied in any other suitable manner. Unless the vamp lining I2 is cementtreated before it is stitched to th upper, the cement is applied to the lining in the same operation in which the inner surface of the vamp is cement treated. After the cement has become tacky, the clip 3 is removed and the vamp lining is outspread upon the inner surface of the vamp by an electric heating unit in the handle of the tool. After the vamp lining has been ironed out and brought into intimate contact with the surface of the vamp, the lining is substantially in the position relatively to the upper illustrated in Fig. 5, the margin of the lining being in contact with the flap 42 of the welt at various points but not finally and permanently attached thereto. The welted margin of the upper is now operated on a second time by the machine of the Wheaton application above referred to in order to further break down the outsole-attaching extension 34 of the welt and to apply rolling pressure to the margin of the vamp lining and the welt to cementattach them together, (Fig. 6). This operation completes the cement-attachment of the lining to the upper and completes the preparation of the upper for the pulling-over, lasting, and subsequent operations on the shoe.

Having thus described by invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That method of making shoes which comprises securing a vamp lining to a shoe upper, drawing the lining heelwardly, holding it against return movement without obstructing the accessibility of the inner surface of the forepart of the upper for subsequent operations, securing a welt to the margin of the upper, spreading the lining out against the inner surface of the upper, and completing the shoe.

2. That method of making shoes which comprises securing a vamp lining and a tongue to a shoe upper, drawing the lining heelwardly to the tongue, clipping it against the free end of the tongue, securing a welt to the margin of the upper, spreading the vamp lining outwardly against the inner surface of the upper, and completing the shoe.

3. That method of making shoes which comprises securing a vamp lining to a shoe upper, drawing the upper heelwardly, holding it against return movement, securing to the margin of the upper a welt having an extension constructed and arranged to be lasted to an insole, applying cement to the inner surface of the upper and to the extension of the welt, spreading the vamp lining outwardly against the inner surface of the upper and against the extension of the welt, and completing the shoe.

4. That method of making shoes which comprises securing a vamp lining to a shoe upper, drawing the lining heelwardly, holding it against return movement, securing to the margin of the upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension, applying cement to the inner surface of the upper and the extension of the welt, spreading the lining outwardly against the upper and said insole-attaching extension, applying rolling pressure to the margin of the lining and the extension of the welt to cement them together, and completing the shoe.

5. That method of making shoes which comprises securing a vamp lining to a shoe upper, folding the opposite marginal portions of the lining inwardly toward the center of the lining, drawing the folded lining heelwardly, holding it against return movement, applying cement to that portion of the inner surface of the upper to be covered by th vamp lining, bringing the lining into intimate contact with the cement-treated surface of the upper, and completing the shoe.

6. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the margin of th forepart of a shoe upper a vamp lining, the marginal portion of which extends beyond the edge of the shoe upper, securing to the margin of the upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension, cement-attaching the main portion of the lining to the forepart of the upper, cement-attaching the marginal portion of the lining to the insole-attaching extension of the welt, and completing the shoe.

7. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the margin of the forepart of a shoe upper a vamp lining, the marginal portion of which extends beyond the edge of the shoe upper, folding the opposite marginal portions of the lining inwardly toward the center of the lining, drawing the folded lining heelwardly, holding it against return movement, securing to the margin of the upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension, cement-attaching the main portion of the lining to the forepart of the upper, cement-attaching the marginal portion of the lining to the insole-attaching extension of the welt, and completing the shoe.

8. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the bottom margin of an upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension andv an outsole-attaching extension which normally lies in a plane common to the margin of the upper, forming the welt to cause the outsole-attaching extension to project outwardly at an angle to the margin of the upper, positioning a cement-treated lining against the inner surface of the welt including the insole-attaching extension, and again forming the welt and in the same operation pressing the lining against the welt to cement-attach said parts together.

9. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the bottom margin of an upper, a welt having an insole-attaching extension and an outsole-attaching extension which normally lies in a plane common to the margin of the upper, said upper having a vamp lining which extends at least to the edge of the insole-attaching extension of the welt, applying rolling pressure to the outsole-attaching extension of the welt to cause it to project outwardly at an angle to the margin of the upper, cement-treating the weltengaging surface of the lining and the inner surfaces of the welt, and again applying rolling pressure to the welt to further shape the welt and also to press together the lining and the welt to cement-attach said parts.

10. That method of making shoes which comprises vproviding an upper having no lasting margin, securing the bottom margin of the upper between two split portions of a welt having a third split portion which serves as an insole-attaching extension and an unsplit portion which serves as an outsole-attaching extension, said unsplit portion normally lying in a plane common to the margin of the upper, providing the upper with a vamp lining which extends at least to the edge of the insole-attaching extension of the welt, breaking the welt by the application of rolling pressure to cause the outsole-attaching extension to project outwardly at an angle to the margin of the upper, cement-treating the contacting surfaces of the lining and the welt, again breaking the welt, and in the latter welt-breaking operation applying rolling pressure to the welt land the lining to bond them together.

11. That method of making shoes which com- .prises providing an upper having no lasting margin, securing the bottom margin of the upper between two split portions of a welt having a third split portion which serves as an insole-attaching extension and an unsplit portion which serves as an outsole-attaching extension, securing to the upper a vamp lining which extends at least to the edge of the insole-attaching extension of the welt, cement-treating the contacting surfaces of the insole-attaching extension and the vamp lining, and applying rolling pressure to said insole-attaching extension and vamp lining to :cementattach said parts together.

12. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the bottom margin of an upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension, said upper having a vamp lining which extends at least to the edge of said insole-attaching extension, lcement-treating the contacting surfaces of the upper, lining and welt, ironing the cementtreated lining to the cement-treated upper, and applying rolling pressure to the margin of the lining and the insole-attaching extension of the welt to cement-attach said parts.

13. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the bottom margin of an up? per a welt having an insole-attaching extension, said .upper having a vamp lining which extends at least to the edge of said insole-attaching extension, cement-treating the contacting surfaces of the upper, lining and welt, applying heat and pressure to the lining to cement-attach the lining to the upper, and pressing together the marsin of the lining and the insole-attaching extension of the welt.

14. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the bottom margin of an upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension, said upper having a vamp lining which extends at least to the edge of said insole-attaching extension, cement-treating the contacting surfaces of the upper, lining and welt, applying dry heat and pressure to the lining to cement-attach the lining to the upper, and applying rolling pressure to the margin of the lining and the insole-attaching extension of the welt to cement said parts together.

15. That method of making shoes which comprises securing to the bottom margin of a lined upper a welt having an insole-attaching extension which normally lies parallel to the margin of the upper, applying rolling pressure to the welt to cause the insole-attaching extension to project inwardly at an angle to the margin of the upper, spraying cement on the upper and on the insoleattaching extension of the welt, bringing the lining into intimate contact with the cement-treated surface of the upper, and again applying rolling pressure to the welt and in the same operation pressing the lining against the welt to cementattach said parts together. 1

JOHN H. BOYER, 

